The Diamond Guide: Shape

What Is Diamond Shape?
The shape of a diamond defines its geometric outline when viewed from above and is one of the key factors that shapes its overall aesthetic. It’s not just about how the diamond looks, but also how it interacts with light, influencing its brilliance and sparkle. The right shape can highlight a diamond’s unique characteristics, bringing out the best in its appearance.
When shopping for a diamond, shape is often one of the first features to be considered. While round diamonds remain the classic and most popular choice, many jewellery lovers are captivated by the distinctiveness of fancy-shaped diamonds, such as oval, cushion, princess, pear, emerald, marquise, asscher, radiant, or even heart-shaped diamonds. Each shape offers its own style and personality, allowing you to select one that resonates with your taste and preference.

Diamond Shape vs. Diamond Cut: Are They the Same Thing?
Although the terms diamond shape and diamond cut are often used interchangeably, they actually refer to two distinct aspects of a diamond. Diamond shape refers to the external form or outline of the stone—examples include round, oval, princess, and emerald shapes. In contrast, diamond cut pertains to how well the diamond’s facets are crafted and how they interact with light. This has a direct impact on the diamond’s brilliance, fire, and scintillation.
While shape defines the diamond’s physical appearance, its cut quality is what determines its visual performance. The cut is assessed based on the diamond’s proportions, symmetry, and polish. After selecting your preferred shape, you can further refine your choice by selecting a cut grade such as Super Ideal, Very Good, or Good, based on how much light reflection and sparkle you desire.
Popular Diamond Shapes

Round Diamonds
The round diamond, often referred to as the round brilliant cut, is the most popular and classic shape. It boasts 57 facets, which are strategically designed to enhance its brilliance and fire. The symmetrical nature of the round shape, combined with its precise cut proportions, ensures exceptional light performance. As a result, round diamonds remain a timeless and highly sought-after choice for those seeking a sparkling, radiant gem.

Oval Diamonds
Oval diamonds are known for their elegant, elongated shape, providing a distinctive alternative to the traditional round cut. This graceful design not only enhances the diamond’s brilliance but also creates the illusion of longer, slimmer fingers, making it a particularly flattering option for many. The oval shape combines timeless appeal with a modern twist, offering a unique yet sophisticated choice for those seeking something a little different.

Cushion Diamonds
Cushion-shaped diamonds blend a square or rectangular outline with softly rounded corners, creating a timeless look that combines both vintage charm and contemporary elegance. This unique shape is known for its brilliant facets, which can produce a striking “chunky” or “crushed ice” effect, depending on how the facets are arranged. The cushion shape offers a captivating mix of old-world sophistication and modern sparkle, making it a popular choice for those seeking a classic yet distinctive diamond.

Princess Diamonds
The princess cut is a contemporary favourite, renowned for its crisp, square shape with pointed corners that exude modern elegance. Its intricate facet arrangement ensures exceptional brilliance and sparkle, making it a striking option that merges both classic and modern aesthetics. The bold, dramatic design of the princess cut makes it a versatile choice, seamlessly complementing a variety of settings while standing out with its unique, edgy appeal.

Pear Diamonds
Pear-shaped diamonds, often referred to as teardrop diamonds, beautifully blend the elegance of round and marquise shapes. With a rounded end and a tapered point, this unique silhouette offers a striking, versatile design that captures attention. Pear-shaped diamonds can create the illusion of a larger size, making them an appealing choice for those looking to maximise impact. They are frequently used in pendants, earrings, and rings, offering a timeless, yet modern aesthetic that suits a variety of styles.

Emerald Diamonds
Emerald-cut diamonds are distinguished by their sleek, rectangular shape and step-cut facets, which create a striking “hall of mirrors” effect. This cut highlights clarity and lustre, prioritising a sophisticated, refined elegance over the brilliance found in other shapes. With its clean lines and polished finish, the emerald cut is perfect for those who appreciate timeless, understated beauty. Its subtle charm makes it a popular choice for individuals seeking a more sophisticated and classic look in their diamond jewellery.

Marquise Diamonds
Marquise diamonds are characterised by their distinctive elongated shape with pointed ends, offering a dramatic and refined aesthetic. This design not only creates a bold visual impact but also helps to maximise the carat weight, making the diamond appear larger than other shapes of the same weight. Ideal for those looking for a one-of-a-kind statement piece, marquise diamonds exude a sense of elegance and grandeur, making them a perfect choice for individuals seeking something truly unique and eye-catching.

Asscher Diamonds
Asscher-shaped diamonds boast a square silhouette with distinctively trimmed corners and a step-cut facet structure. Similar to the emerald cut, the Asscher features a higher crown and smaller table, giving it a unique and refined look. Known for its vintage charm, this cut exudes a timeless, bold elegance and is often selected for its striking, geometric appearance. The Asscher cut offers a sophisticated, dramatic flair, making it an ideal choice for those seeking a diamond with both character and distinction.

Radiant Diamonds
Radiant-shaped diamonds blend the sleek, angular lines of the emerald cut with the dazzling brilliance of the round cut. Featuring a square or rectangular shape with cropped corners and a brilliant-cut facet arrangement, the radiant cut offers a perfect fusion of sparkle and sophistication. Its versatility makes it a popular choice, as it pairs effortlessly with a variety of settings, from modern to classic, ensuring a vibrant and elegant look with every wear.
Length-to-Width Ratio
The length-to-width ratio is a crucial factor when evaluating the proportions and visual impact of specific diamond shapes. This ratio is determined by dividing the length of the diamond by its width, providing a numerical representation of the diamond’s outline. For example, a diamond measuring 10mm in length and 5mm in width would have a length-to-width ratio of 2.0. This measurement is especially important for elongated diamond shapes like oval, marquise, pear, and emerald cuts, as the proportion of these diamonds plays a significant role in their appearance. Here’s how it affects the diamond’s overall look:
Visual Appeal: The length-to-width ratio influences how the diamond appears in terms of elongation or roundness. A higher ratio, for instance, will make an oval diamond look more elongated, while a lower ratio will result in a rounder, more balanced appearance.
Maximized Brilliance: A diamond with well-proportioned length and width tends to reflect light more efficiently, boosting its brilliance and overall sparkle. Balanced proportions make sure that the light hits the facets optimally, enhancing the diamond’s visual appeal.
Enhanced Size Perception: A diamond with an ideal length-to-width ratio can appear larger than one with poorly balanced proportions. For example, a marquise diamond with the right ratio will maximize surface area, creating the illusion of a more substantial stone, even if the carat weight remains the same.
By paying attention to the length-to-width ratio when selecting a diamond, buyers can ensure that the stone’s proportions are aesthetically pleasing, giving it a flattering and balanced appearance while elevating the beauty of the jewellery.
While this all may seem over-whelming, we are here to help. When buying a ring from Beards, we always prioritise the best looking diamond considering all of the above factors.
Diamond Shape FAQ
What is the best shape for a diamond?
Choosing the best diamond shape ultimately comes down to personal preference, style, and the look you’re aiming for. While round diamonds are the most popular due to their classic charm and exceptional light performance, other shapes such as oval, cushion, and princess each bring their own distinctive qualities. These shapes offer a range of options to suit different tastes, ensuring that there’s a perfect diamond for every individual. Whether you prefer the timeless brilliance of a round cut or the unique appeal of an oval or cushion shape, the best choice is one that complements your style and preferences.
What diamond shape looks the biggest?
Diamonds with shapes that maximise surface area, such as marquise, oval, and pear, often appear larger than other shapes with the same carat weight. These elongated shapes create the illusion of a bigger size by stretching the diamond’s form. Additionally, selecting a shape with a larger table facet can further enhance the diamond’s visual size, making it appear more substantial on the finger without increasing its actual carat weight.
What diamond shape is the most expensive?
Round diamonds generally command the highest prices, primarily due to their popularity and the significant amount of rough diamond lost during the cutting process. Achieving the perfect cut to maximise brilliance requires exceptional precision, further adding to the cost. Other shapes, such as emerald and Asscher, can also be pricey, especially when their quality and rarity are considered. While round diamonds tend to be more expensive, the unique qualities of alternative shapes can sometimes justify their higher price tags as well.
Which diamond shape offers the best sparkle?
Round brilliant diamonds are celebrated for their extraordinary sparkle, thanks to their precisely cut facets and symmetrical shape. This shape is designed to optimise light reflection, resulting in unparalleled brilliance, fire, and scintillation, making round diamonds the epitome of brilliance in the diamond world.
Which diamond shape is the most popular?
The round brilliant diamond remains the most sought-after shape, prized for its enduring elegance and exceptional brilliance. Its timeless appeal and versatility make it the go-to choice for engagement rings and a wide range of fine jewellery. However, other shapes such as princess, oval, and cushion also hold their own, each offering distinct visual characteristics that cater to individual tastes and styles.
Can you change the shape of a diamond?
While it is possible to change the shape of a diamond, the process requires re-cutting the stone, which can lead to a loss of carat weight and potentially affect its value. This delicate task demands expert craftsmanship to ensure the new shape not only enhances the diamond’s appearance but also preserves its brilliance and structural integrity. Often, diamonds are re-cut to improve their aesthetic appeal or to repair any existing damage.
What is the bowtie effect?
The bow tie effect refers to a dark shadow that can appear across the centre of elongated diamond shapes, such as oval, marquise, and pear cuts. This occurs when light fails to reflect optimally within the diamond, often due to an excessively shallow or deep pavilion, resulting in a shadow resembling a bow tie. The visibility of this effect is largely influenced by the diamond’s cut quality and proportions. Diamonds with high-quality cuts are designed to minimise this shadow, ensuring a more vibrant and visually appealing appearance.
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